For the past few months, I’ve been in my fragrance era. As I expand my wardrobe of scents, I’ve become more fascinated by how fragrance really works, and what base notes and scent profiles I tend to gravitate towards. For years, my favorite candles and perfumes alike have had a few things in common: warm notes, vanilla and sandalwood. I’ve expressed that sandalwood is one of my favorite scents for quite some time, but realized recently that, in reality, I have no idea what sandalwood even is.
When I realized that my confusion over what sandalwood means as it relates to fragrance was not a singular one, I decided to do some research. Ahead, see what fragrance experts from some of the biggest fragrance brands in the industry have to say about all things sandalwood.
Featured Experts
- Roger Schmid is Bluemercury’s fragrance expert
- Yvan Jacqueline is the President of the Americas, Parfums de Marly and Initio Parfums Privés
What exactly is sandalwood?
As Bluemercury fragrance expert Roger Schmid explains, “Sandalwood originated from India and has been used in religious ceremonies and as furniture material for 3,000 years. Specifically for perfumery, the use of sandalwood goes back to the end of the 1800s, and the olfaction characteristic of sandalwood is its creaminess—a soft, warm, woody note that is not diffusing, but long-lasting. Sandalwood trees reach maturity after 15 years, and that’s when the heart of the log is chopped in woodchips for distillation. There are three main types of sandalwood as well as many substitutes that come from organic chemistry and are widely used in perfumery.”
President of the Americas for Parfums de Marly and Initio Parfums Privés, Yvan Jacqueline adds, “The distinctive aroma of sandalwood comes from santalol, a compound found in the essential oils extracted from the heartwood of the Indian sandalwood tree (santalum album). The essential oil is derived from the mature tree, typically around 25-30 years old, when the trunk has reached a circumference of approximately 45 cm. Older trees produce a higher quality, more deeply scented oil.”
Sandalwood’s power on the olfactory sense is not limited to perfume, Jacqueline notes. “Beyond its use in perfumery, sandalwood has been employed in traditional medicine and aromatherapy for centuries. It is known for its calming and sedative properties, making it beneficial for alleviating insomnia, headaches and migraines. Sandalwood is also used in various products, including soaps, lotions and luxury candles.”
How is sandalwood turned into fragrance?
The process for harvesting sandalwood varies from company to company, but as Jacqueline explains, “Sourced from the ancient, sacred Santalum album tree, Parfums de Marly’s sandalwood is carefully harvested from the heartwood of trees that have reached a venerable age of 25 to 30 years. This patient cultivation ensures that the wood’s oil is of unparalleled quality, imbued with a rich, creamy and evocative aroma.”
“The process begins with the meticulous extraction of essential oil from the heartwood, where the most aromatic compounds reside,” Jacqueline continues, “This is achieved through steam distillation, a delicate technique that preserves the integrity of sandalwood’s complex scent profile. The resulting oil is a luxurious blend of santalol, the compound responsible for its creamy, warm notes, and other nuanced elements that contribute to its depth and longevity.”
What does a sandalwood fragrance pair best with?
When it comes to creating your own signature scent, understanding what scents pair well together is crucial. Luckily, as Schmid explains, “Sandalwood can be paired with almost anything. Since it isn’t a volatile fragrance, it adds depth and warmth to any scent.” Jacqueline agrees, noting that “Sandalwood is highly versatile and pairs well with a variety of olfactive notes, enhancing and balancing different fragrance compositions.” Specifically, Jacqueline says that spices, florals, citrus notes, amber, vanilla and resin pair best with sandalwood.
5 Sandalwood Fragrances to Try
