It’s no secret that regenerative medicine and aesthetics have permeated the beauty industry in recent years. But, it’s a complex topic and not the easiest to understand for those of us who aren’t a scientist, dermatologist or other trained professional. Nonetheless, as ingredients like growth factors and exosomes find their way into our skin-care products, we should take the time to educate ourselves on what they are and how they work. “I call this the regenerative medicine toolkit,” says Rochester, MN dermatologist Saranya Wyles, MD. “Exosomes, stem cells and growth factors are the tools.” However, what is the difference between these high-tech “tools”? Here, top experts break it down.
Featured Experts
- Saranya Wyles, MD, PhD, a board-certified dermatologist based in Rochester, MN
- Krupa Koestline, a cosmetic chemist and founder of KKT Innovation Labs
Exosomes, Stem Cells and Growth Factors: How They Differ
Cosmetic chemist Krupa Koestline says stem cells are undifferentiated cells that can be derived from various sources, such as mesenchymal stem cells (MSCs) from adipose tissue or bone marrow, or epidermal stem cells from the skin. “Stem cells are cells from our bodies that have the potential to renew, regenerate and turnover,” Dr. Wyles explains. “They can replenish and restore new tissues. However, because they are cells, they need to be kept alive in an incubator and cannot be bottled. They have to be delivered by injectable. Everything about this treatment needs to be regulated by the FDA because stem cells are an actual source of cell material from a human-body source—it’s a drug.”
In the lab, Dr. Wyles says stem cells are grown on petri dishes with media, which is basically the “soup” they need to survive. “If you take that media out, you can get different products that are coming from the cells,” she explains. “There’s a difference between a stem cell and what a stem cell secretes. Two things the stem cells are secreting, or releasing, are growth factors and exosomes. If you take that media out, you can isolate the exosomes from it. So, when a company says its product has ‘stem cell–based exosomes’ or stem cell–based growth factors,’ those are coming from the media.” Koestline adds that this secretion of growth factors and exosomes is part of a process called paracrine signaling. “In essence, exosomes could be carrying growth factors as well.”
Do They All Impact Skin the Same Way?
Not exactly. “While they all help with skin health and regeneration, their approaches differ,” Koestline says. “Exosomes act as carriers for bioactive molecules like proteins and lipids. They facilitate cell-to-cell communication and promote collagen synthesis, reduce inflammation and enhance skin repair.” Growth factors, on the other hand, “bind to surface receptors to activate cellular pathways,” Koestline explains. “They stimulate fibroblast proliferation for collagen and elastin production, as well as promote wound healing and skin regeneration.” Examples of growth factors you may have heard of are fibroblast growth factor (FGF), epidermal growth factor (EGF) and transforming growth factor-beta (TGF-β).
Ultimately, however, the goal of these regenerative “tools” is to promote tissue repair, regeneration and homeostasis. “Exosomes and growth factors work best together to improve skin from multiple angles,” says Koestline. “But, it is important to consider where they are derived from and how they interact with the human epidermal cells.”
What About Plant-Based Exosomes and Stem Cells?
If you are curious about plant-based exosomes and stem cells, those are very different than what we’re discussing here. Plant cells and extracts do not communicate with human cells in the same way. According to a 2020 study, researchers concluded that “despite all these promising developments in the area of plant stem cells and their varied applications, it is not yet clear if the plant-derived extracts and those from stem cells have ethnicity specific effects on humans.”
Plant extracts can be incredibly beneficial for the skin, and no one is denying that. However, when it comes to plant-based exosomes and stem cells specifically, the space is still new and we need more research supporting their efficacy.
