According to Statista, only about 4 percent of the U.S. population is vegan. But, when it comes to beauty products, avoiding animal by-products is more popular than ever. If we take a look back at the history books, these by-products have been used for aesthetic purposes for centuries. Did you know that many red lipsticks contain a pigment called cochineal extract that is created from crushed beetles? It dates back to the Aztecs—historians say Cleopatra used it on her lips as well—and it’s still used today. However, the tides are changing in the beauty industry as more brands develop and transition to vegan formulas across all categories. And, you don’t have to follow a vegan diet to use or appreciate them. Here, a deep dive into all things vegan beauty, including top products to try.
Featured Experts
- Sarah Koch, senior vice president of KVD Beauty
- Laura Cline, associate vice president of product development at Youth To The People
- Jessica Zeller, senior vice president of marketing for Vegamour
- Hilary Jones, the global ethical director for LUSH
- Erica Vega, brand and product expert for LUSH
What is vegan beauty?
To be labeled a vegan beauty product, the formula must not contain any animal-derived ingredients, including insects. “Vegan beauty products should have all the same attributes as any other beauty products, but with the added benefit that the customer can use them with peace of mind, knowing that no animal has suffered,” says Hilary Jones, global ethical director for LUSH.
Vegan formulas also often have a lower environmental impact because they don’t rely on animal agriculture or byproducts, adds a marketing representative for Biossance. “A vegan label is important because it started with eliminating animal cruelty and testing, and has gradually shifted to also include protecting natural resources,” she explains. “Being vegan in today’s beauty landscape aligns with the growing consumer demand for ethical and sustainable products that are better for them and the planet, but also deliver on performance.”
KVD Beauty has been a pioneer in the vegan makeup category since 2016. Taking vegan beauty a step further, it only sells its products in regions, channels and within product categories that do not require animal testing. “We will not sell in countries, such as China, where it’s legally required to test on animals until those laws change,” says KVD’s senior vice president Sarah Koch.
Third-Party Certification for Vegan Brands
Vegan products can be labeled in several different ways, but according to the experts interviewed here, the most trustworthy products are those that have achieved the seal of a third-party organization. “A certification from Leaping Bunny is the gold standard in the beauty industry. It’s the only internationally recognized symbol guaranteeing that no animal tests were used in product development,” says Jessica Zeller, senior vice president of marketing for Vegamour. Other credible organizations include BeVeg and The Vegan Trademark. It’s important to note, however, that a brand can boast the Leaping Bunny seal to signal that it is cruelty free, but not be vegan.
The Most Common Animal Ingredients Used in Beauty Products
If a product isn’t clearly labeled “vegan,” it can be difficult to screen for animal-derived ingredients just by just looking at ingredient lists, says Laura Cline, associate vice president of product development at Youth To The People. These are three things to keep in mind:
01: “Ingredients such as glycerin, lactic acid, peptides, collagen and keratin can be vegan or non-vegan,” Cline explains. “It depends on the sourcing. For example, peptides are considered best when they are synthetically made in a lab. There, the conditions are controlled and emissions can be much lower than the animal-sourced alternatives. But, they’re just as effective in performance.”
02: Some materials, such as gelatin, beeswax, liver oil, and honey only come from animal sources. Squalane was once a part of this group, but is now available in vegan formats. “For generations, beauty products were fortified with squalene from sharks. It provided exceptional moisture for the skin, but at the cost of millions of sharks that are critical to our ocean’s ecosystems,” says a marketing representative for Biossance. “Our parent company Amyris pioneered vegan squalane by deriving it from 100-percent plant-based sugarcane through biofermentation. Not only does Biossance use this ingredient to power its products, but Amyris also sells it to other beauty brands. Now, we supply 70 percent of the global squalane market. You can also get vegan squalane from olives, however the process is less sustainable and reliable.”
03: Most vegans exclude honey from their diets, but there’s been some debate about using the ingredient in beauty products. Though it is animal-derived, some brands argue it can be sourced with efforts to protect the bees rather than harm them. “There is a perception that most apiaries view bees simply as a means to an end for pollinating agriculture and producing honey and wax,” says Erica Vega, brand and product expert for LUSH. “But, that couldn’t be further from the truth when it comes to the groups we work with, such as Miels d’Anicet.”
The Biggest Challenges for Vegan Brands
Makeup
There’s a common misconception that vegan makeup doesn’t perform as well as its non-vegan counterparts. But, Koch says brands continue to disprove this. “At KVD, the biggest hurdle is achieving those bright vibrant and vivid shades, especially in the pink and purple realm. This is because we do not use carmine [aka cochineal extract, the ingredient derived from beetles]. We’ve spent years developing methods to achieve the same effects without resorting to using carmine or any other ingredients derived from animals or insects.”
Hair Care
Some ingredients used in hair-care products are more difficult to be made vegan than others. “One is keratin, which is known to make hair feel thicker and stronger, but it’s a direct animal by-product,” says Zeller. “With this in mind, Vegamour formulated Karmatin, a first-of-its-kind vegan alternative formulated with plant actives and natural botanicals. It utilizes microencapsulated vegan b-SILK protein, which bonds to hair follicles and remains attached to strands, even after rinsing.”
Skin Care
Honey and beeswax are often used as effective humectants in skin care and add structural components to a formula, says Cline. But, they need to be avoided if the goal is to be vegan. Plant waxes, such as those from rice bran and sunflower, can be used as alternatives to beeswax. However, they have different melting points and feel differently on the skin. “Some petrochemicals have the same flow and flexibility, but we prefer not to use those ingredients,” says Jones. Honey doesn’t have as many vegan alternatives, though some brands have found success with tree saps and agave. “Honey is an antibacterial superfood and has incredible benefits for the skin,” says Vega. “Although LUSH is primarily vegan, we do use honey in some products.”
What the Future Holds for Vegan Beauty
Like the growing popularity of vegan and plant-based diets, Cline says that becoming less reliant on animal sources is a gentler and more eco-friendly direction. “We can only hope that it will soon become an industry norm,” she adds. “According to Fortune Business Insights, trends show that vegan beauty is growing. The category is projected to reach almost $25 billion by 2028.” Experts believe biotech will be the driving force behind the category’s innovation.
“Today’s beauty consumer expects that their cosmetics are vegan and cruelty-free, even if they aren’t fully vegan themselves,” says Koch. “This demand drives all brands to look for innovative solutions, leading to new product breakthroughs. While vegan beauty is common in the U.S., our hope for the future is that it becomes the global standard. Additionally, animal testing will cease to be required anywhere in the world.”
Vegan + Vetted: 5 Products to Try
