With its beautifully rich imagery and more than one shocking scene—this wasn’t necessarily the film to watch with your parents on the sofa over the holiday break—Saltburn has established itself as the first “did-you-see-it?” watercooler conversation of the new year (sorry, Real Housewives of Salt Lake City).
Beyond the acting and storyline, the overall aesthetic of the Amazon Prime film was also undeniably outstanding, led by BAFTA-nominated hair and makeup designer, Siân Miller, who recently chatted with us on all the beauty details. (Spoiler alert: The two leading men were into ice-bath facials and a lot of detail was put into place to make sure skin “looked sweaty.”) “The makeup and hair team had to ensure the cast looked real, to contrive the uncontrived,” Miller shares. “This always takes some doing—if not more so than what’s blatantly obvious. Reality was essential in order to anchor these characters within the grandiose world of Saltburn.”
Hair Apparent:
Model Behavior:
Like the hair, Miller wanted Rosamund’s makeup to be understated and elegant. “Elspeth spent her youth modelling, and as such a canvas for other peoples’ creations—but now she’s filthy rich, incredibly beautiful and seemingly has everything she needs, with no desire to mask her natural allure. Ultimately, the key to capturing the look of the British ruling class is the less dressed up, the richer one is. Rosamund was wonderful to collaborate with, down to the smallest of details, and between Emerald and us, we tested many hairstyles and makeup looks, narrowing these down to a simple day look and a simple evening look,” she says. “There were variations on eyeshadow colors and so on, but with a consistency to the overall makeup finish—soft, muted and elegant. Parties are a regular occurrence and Elspeth would never over do her makeup, in contrast to what is already the magnificent backdrop of Saltburn, a couture Valentino gold dress is enough!”
Brand Roundup:
Miller shares that Elspeth’s makeup designs included the following: Chantecaille Ultra Sun Protection ($102); Sisley All Day All Year ($500); By Terry and Dior Back Stage ($43) foundations; Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage Concealer ($38) and Gatineau Miracle Eye Contour Cream; Chanel Les Beiges eyeshadows ($70); Rare Beauty Cream Blusher ($22); Glossier Cloud Paint ($20); Guerlain Meteorite powder compact ($68); MAC Paint Pots ($25); Chanel eye pencils; Sweed No Lash Lash ($30); Lancôme Doll Eyes mascara ($33); Typology lip oil ($28); and Laneige Lip sleeping mask ($24); nails were carefully manicured, short and neat, and finished off with Dior Ruban polish.
Unpolished Perfection:
Aside from Carey Mulligan’s character “Poor Dear Pamela,” who Miller says needed to be “uncomfortably dressed from breakfast through ’til bedtime, with her red hair, stylized makeup and tattoos,” the beauty aesthetic for Saltburn—and, more specifically, the Cattons—was one of desirable and uncomplicated allure.
“Allure derived from ancestral entitlement, old money and an apparent effortlessness,” explains Miller. “The Cattons needed to look beautiful and relaxed, people to aspire to, to want, to be like, and they needed to look real amongst the grandeur. This fed the makeup and hair design process and the accessibility of their looks. It was imperative that the aesthetic did not distract from the story, that the tone blended perfectly with the production and costume design.”
At the core of creating the overall Saltburn beauty aesthetic: Capturing how raw and unpolished this period of time was with the teen/young-adult fashion, makeup and hair scene. “This was a time before obsessive contouring and overdone Instagram-style makeup, when grubby-looking bronzer ruled with a grungy eyeliner and a frosted lip,” Miller notes. “The makeup and hair design for Alison Oliver’s character ‘Venetia’ captures this aesthetic in a nutshell. In addition, Felix has disheveled and sexily tousled hair, Farleigh embraces his natural texture, and Oliver transforms from a self-styled 2006 ‘Zach Efron-esque’ look, to a Felix-wannabe, to a modern day ‘Cary Grant’ against a backdrop of equally styled characters at Oxford University and partygoers to their country estate.”
Time Period:
When it came to creative challenges, Miller says the only one she really faced was the limited time she had with the actors prior to filming. “But with such a collaborative cast, we found a way to create these looks with enthusiasm, trust and an eagerness to make the makeup and hair designs fit with Emerald’s vision and her great script.”
On-Set Essentials:
HAIR: ORIBE Dry Texturising Spray ($52), Rough Luxury Moulding Paste ($39), Superfine Hairspray ($46), Supershine Light Moisturizing Cream ($54); AVEDA Grooming Cream Brilliant Medium Hold Hairspray ($30), PATTERN BEAUTY Lightweight Conditioner ($49) and Hydrating Mist ($19)
MAKEUP: Charlotte Tilbury Airbrush Bronzer ($58); Pink blusher (Miller says Kylie Cosmetics has the perfect color for a 2007 look) Pink Dreams; Eyeliner pencils in blue, green and black, ranging from Chanel to NYX and Rimmel; Laura Mercier Tinted Moisturiser ($53); Tom Ford Traceless Soft Matte Foundation ($45), which Miller used for Barry Keoghan, changing the tone from natural and paler at the start of the movie to more tanned when we see him looking older and that she loves the product for men’s skin.
SWEAT-EFFECT PRODUCTS: Miller says Emerald wanted to see the young cast looking hot, sweaty and flushed for super big close ups in the 1:33 aspect ratio and she relied on: Dr. Paw Paw Original Balm ($5.25); MaqPro Liquid Perspiration; Evian facial spray; La Roche Posay thermal spring water or similar. “We used a lot of water atomizers!” Miller says. “I also love MaqPro Fard Creme Palettes to create natural flushed-looking cheeks. It’s made from natural waxes, it can be thinned with their mixer and applied like a watercolor, super translucent wash.”
SKIN CARE: The entire cast enjoyed these products in particular: 111Skin Celestial Black Diamond Eye Masks ($115), 111Skin Celestial Black Diamond Lifting and Firming Treatment Masks ($140) and 111Skin Reparative NAC Y2 collection; Sun protection from Ultra Violette and Hello Sunday; Aesop hand cream and body lotion; ice-bath facials, which Barry and Jacob did, in particular, Miller says. “We would do this in the morning prior to their skin care and makeup application. It’s great for reducing inflammation, boosting circulation, reducing redness and plumping skin. Plus, it wakes you up!”
BEAUTY TOOLS: TheraFace Pro ($399); Hayo’u Gua Sha Tools; Foreo face devices; YS Park hair tools