These days, we’re all looking for the right recipe to get the best out of filler. Between the technique, the injector, and the product itself, there are so many factors that tell the difference between good and great lip filler. And the latest craze taking over TikTok promises to solve your biggest issues with filler while still providing the bold and sexy look you’re looking for. But is the Russian lip filler technique a viable option or a recipe for disaster?
Featured Experts
- Sam P. Most, MD is a board-certified facial plastic surgeon based in Stanford, CA
- Marina Peredo, MD is a board-certified dermatologist based in New York
- Jackie Yee, MD is a board-certified plastic surgeon based in Miami
- Amelia K. Hausauer, MD is a board-certified dermatologist based in Campbell, CA
How Do We Administer Filler in the U.S.?
“In the U.S., there isn’t a single universally agreed-upon ‘appropriate’ technique for lip filler,” explains Stanford, CA facial plastic surgeon Sam P. Most, MD. “Preferences can vary based on the injector’s training, patient needs, and desired outcomes. However, the general approach focuses on natural enhancement, creating fuller, symmetric lips without going beyond the natural lip contours.”
Some options, like the vermilion border technique, don’t actually focus on added volume.
“The key difference between this technique and other lip filler methods is that filling the vermillion border doesn’t necessarily add lip volume,” says Miami plastic surgeon Jackie Yee, MD. “It corrects wrinkles and defines the shape of the lips. The injection is done more superficially and uses a very small amount of product.”
The variety in technique means more options, which allows the patient to have more input in to their desired look.
“When it comes to lip fillers, I think it is more important to give patients a natural looking, fuller and prettier lips regardless of the technique used,” explains New York dermatologist Marina Peredo, MD.
The Russian Filler Technique
“Russian lip filler technique is a method that uses a vertical injection technique vs horizontal technique,” Peredo says. “It can create a taller and fuller appearance of the lip.”
According to Dr. Most, it isn’t surprising to see this technique gaining traction.
“This technique creates a more pronounced, ‘heart-shaped’ appearance, especially in the upper lip, providing a youthful, voluminous look with a sharp Cupid’s bow,” he explains. “The focus is on lifting the lips rather than just adding volume, giving the lips a more structured, sculpted appearance. This can be appealing to those who want more than just plump lips.”
Russian lip filler also emphasizes a bespoke approach, creating a more personalized final look.
“The vertical approach creates a more dramatic look compared to other methods,” adds Dr. Most. “That can be appealing to those looking for noticeable lip enhancement.”
The Risks of The Russian Filler Technique
“The Russian lip technique often flattens the lip,” explains Campbell, CA dermatologist Amelia K. Hausauer, MD. “If you look at the anatomy and kind of dissect the lip, it is really rounded. It has a lot of curves, and that’s what makes it luscious and kissable, right? So when you start to get rid of those natural transitions, or you try to put a lot of product in a relatively small area like the lips, you end up squeezing it out into other areas. You lose those natural transitions and natural junctions”
That means this technique is easily susceptible to looking ‘overfilled.’
“I think part of that overfilled look comes from the lack of recognition of the slopes we normally associate with the face,” says Dr. Hausauer.
That makes choosing the right injector a big deal. An experienced injector will also help reduce your risk of vascular occlusion. This rare but serious side-effect of filler can lead to tissue death and scarring. There have even been cases of blindness caused by filler entering an artery.
“If filler gets inside of a blood vessel and shoots off like a blood clot, it acts like a small stroke to that area. Blood can’t get to the eye because the filler is occluding the blood vessel,” says Largo, FL oculoplastic surgeon Jasmine Mohadjer, MD.
Is It a Good Idea?
“If done tastefully and correctly, without overinjecting or overfilling the lip it can look very pretty,” says Dr. Most.
You can maximize your chances of achieving great lip filler by choosing a board-certified dermatologist, plastic or facial plastic surgeon.
