The Biggest Beauty Trends on the Runway at NYFW 2024

Messy, Smoked-Out Eyes

Move over, clean girl aesthetic—messy, “rockstar girlfriend” emo-grunge makeup is back! Smoked out, stark-black eye looks were seen all over the runway, from PatBo to Prabal Gurung, Christian Cowan and more. Backstage at the PatBo show, I spoke with global beauty director at Stila Cosmetics, Charlie Riddle, who explained that for PatBo’s FW 2024 collection, the models wore a “smokeshow, eye-centered look” inspired by the idea of “soft femininity with a bit of edge.”

Using only the brand’s Smudgepot ($20) and Stay All Day Liner in Stingray ($22) Riddle created an effortlessly smokey eye that beautifully contrasted the satin-finished, flawless skin and perfectly encapsulated the idea of “Lower East Side girl meets beautiful ballerina.” Riddle said it best: “Makeup is back on the runway.”

Wet & Wild Hair

Hair that looked naturally wet and effortlessly sleek was also all over the NYFW runway. From simple, middle-parted and slicked-down hair that looked fresh out of the shower to more experimental looks like that of the Prabal Gurung show, “wet and wild” was definitely a hair trend across shows. I was especially taken aback by the hair at the Prabal Gurung show, where Wella Professionals created a look that was simultaneously sleek and slept in.

“To compliment this collection, we wanted the hair to look powerful, effortless, strong and modern through the wet, piecy look,” explains Gurung himself. “Using Wella Professionals Ultimate Repair Miracle Hair Rescue ($35), we were able to create this look and bring the runway vision to life while ensuring our models’ hair health.”

Hair as Art

In the same way that makeup is back on the runway, so is experimental, “hair as art” styles, as seen clearly through unorthodox styles like that of Prabal Gurung’s slept-in wet look and all of the hairdos seen at THE BLONDS Fall/Winter 2024 show. Using exclusively TRESemmé products like the brand’s Extra Hold Mousse ($7) and Keratin Weightless Silk Serum ($7), lead hairstylist at THE BLONDS show, Lacy Redway created sky-high, architectural, out-of this world hair looks.

“Hair is art, just like fashion,” explains David and Phillipe Blond of THE BLONDS. “It’s such an important piece when it comes to showcasing our work. Especially as we prepare to pay homage to the legendary Latinos who have inspired our personal journey, we are incredibly excited to have the brand helping us bring our vision to life.”

Long, Artsy Nails

In a similar way that we’re bidding adieu to minimalist makeup, New York Fashion Week also proved that low-key nails are on their way out—at least on the runway. Almost every show I saw featured extravagant nails, and one of my favorites was the KISS sponsored look for Prabal Gurung’s show. Backstage, I chatted with celebrity manicurist and lead nail artist on site, Gina Edwards, who explained that these “elusive nails” were inspired by the experimental use of fabrics in Prabal’s collection, as the magnetic, cat-eye finish on these KISS nails plays with the light in a way that is both eccentric and elusive. Edwards also explained that the metallic, stiletto nails contributed to the “haunting” nature of the collection.

While Edwards sculpted and polished these press-ons specifically for the Prabal show, you can achieve this look at home by applying the KISS Salon Acrylic Natural Nails ($9), filing them into a sharp, stiletto shape, then applying your favorite magnet polish. “Use a magnet on both sides, parallel to the nail,” Edwards explains.

Flushed Blush

Blush has been having a moment for quite some time now, and the biggest blush trend on the New York runway was definitely flushed, natural blush. Backstage with Smashbox Cosmetics for Christian Cowan, one of the makeup artists explained the blush look was brushed across the cheeks and the bridge of the nose to create a slept-in, flushed effect. “We wanted it to look like the models slept in the look, woke up, brushed on a bit more and went onto the runway,” she explained. The look was courtesy of the brand’s new Halo Sculpt + Glow Face Palette ($45), which the artists used to create a look that was cohesive and natural.

Science-Backed Skin Prep

Another major trend across the New York Fashion Week shows was the inclusion of derm-supported, science-backed skin prep to ensure the models’ skin was showing through in every look. At the Kim Shui show, Kate Somerville facials were given to each model before going in for hair and makeup, emphasizing the newfound appreciation for a curated skin-prep routine pre-runway.

Using the brand’s ExfoliKate Facial Cleanser ($44), ExfoliKate Intensive Exfoliating Treatment ($78) and ExfoliKate Glow Moisturizer ($48), the makeup artists ensured skin was clear, glowing and the perfect canvas for skin-forward makeup looks.

Nostalgic, Corporate Woman-Chic

Whether it be the Truman Capote–era bouffant blowouts seen on the Christian Cowan runway or the coiffed, ’90s-inspired S-wave styles at the Retrofête show, nostalgic, powerful-businesswomen hair looks were not to be missed.

At the Christian Cowan show, the inspiration for the overall look was not Mob Wife, but Mob Boss, emphasizing the empowerment of the women on the runway, and the ’60s-era bouffant wigs worn by each model were the perfect contrast to the modern Mob Boss makeup.

Before the Cowan show, celebrity hairstylist Justine Marjan hand-prepped over 30 wigs, creating the perfect pin curls for maximum volume courtesy of TRESemmé’s Extra Hold Mousse ($7), Perfecting Keratin Leave-In Lotion ($8), Extra Hold Hairspray ($7) and Keratin Smooth Shine Spray ($8). “The inspiration for this look is expensive with a sense of luxury and confidence,” Marjan explains. “The hair is polished, coiffed and structured with a classic set and then brushed out.” 

Fluffy Lashes

At Thom Browne’s F/W 2024 runway show, the models embodied different, animalistic personas—the crow or the mantis—and the big, fluffy lashes they wore helped to exaggerate their eyes and contribute to that hauntingly beautiful and almost non-human look, explains makeup artist on set, Isamaya Ffrench. “Additionally, we have this fantastically beautiful gold character, who is the Queen of the Mantises, wearing gold-painted Lashify Gossamer® Lashes,” Ffrench notes, “along with the Raven, who will be wearing beautiful, glittery-painted Black Lashify Gossamer® Lashes.”

The Lashify experts behind the scenes at the show told us that they opted for the brands’ Plushy Gossamer ($25)—one of their best sellers—to help elongate the outer corners and create a captivating, luscious lash look. “We focussed on a heavier lash towards the outer corner for that intense, winged effect,” Ffrench explains.

Statement Red Lip

Whether they were being used to exemplify powerful femininity, old-Hollywood glamor or storybook characters à la Edgar Allen Poe, big, bold red lips were all over the NYFW runway. At the Thom Browne show, each of the models embodied different characters, but all were sporting The Cardinal ($34) from Isamaya Beauty, which Ffrench herself describes as a “bright, punchy red.”