Three little letters with a host of big benefits, NAD is the next buzzy skin-care ingredient promising the fountain of youth, and the science is legit. Here’s what we know so far about how NAD is being used today for better, younger-looking skin.
Featured Experts
- Marina Peredo, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York
- Ginger King, a cosmetic chemist and NewBeauty Brain Trust member
- Isabel Greiner, founder of skin-care brand Intuisse
What Is NAD?
“NAD stands for nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide,” says New York dermatologist Marina Peredo, MD. “It is a coenzyme found in all living cells, and it plays a major role in generating the cells’ energy.” Isabel Greiner, founder of skin-care brand Intuisse, uses the pure form of NAD across her entire line. “The ingredient works as a shuttle bus, transferring electrons from one molecule to another within cells to carry out all sorts of reactions and processes.” NAD is a general term for both NAD+ and NADH, explains cosmetic chemist Ginger King. “NAD+ is in an oxidative state, which is ready to help with skin repair, while NADH already did the job. NAD is needed for energy production and boosting DNA repair.”
Unfortunately, like hyaluronic acid, collagen and elastin, the level of NAD in our bodies declines with age. “The decline of natural NAD levels leads to decreased cellular function, and potentially contributes to age-related conditions like fine lines and wrinkles,” says Dr. Peredo. A 2020 study published in Experimental Gerontology revealed that the average concentration of NAD+ in human skin appeared to decrease at least 50 percent over the course of adult aging. It was also several fold lower in adults compared to newborns.
The Benefits of NAD in Skin Care
“Skin health starts at the cellular level, and NAD helps to energize the cells,” says King. In topical skin-care products (it can also be taken orally in supplement form), it’s primarily used in formulas for mature skin. “It is absorbed by the cells quickly and effectively,” Greiner explains. “When NAD is synthesized in the body, it boosts mitochondrial function and repairs damaged cells. This includes the cells that form the elasticity of the skin. As a result, this process reduces wrinkles, dark spots and fine lines caused by aging.”
Aside from its benefits, King suspects that NAD is becoming popular right now because it is a derivative of niacin (vitamin B3) and can be made from niacinamide. “Niacinamide has hit its most glorious moment in beauty,” she says. “The key difference is that niacinamide is more so used to treat skin redness and inflammation, whereas NAD helps with skin health and longevity. However, they work nicely as a team, too. Research shows niacinamide is a NAD precursor and can increase NAD+ levels in the skin. NAD can also play well with hyaluronic acid, peptides and ceramides, but strong acids may alter its state and make it less effective.”
Liposomal delivery systems are a favored method for getting NAD into the skin, as it is a notoriously unstable ingredient. “Liposomes are tiny vesicles compromising lipid bilayers that can encapsulate active ingredients,” Greiner says. “This helps protect the active from degradation and enhances its penetration into the skin.”
Who It’s Best For
NAD already exists in our bodies, so it’s generally well-tolerated by all skin types, including sensitive skin. “Products containing NAD are great for those with mature skin, as the ingredient can help reduce wrinkles and fine lines,” says Dr. Peredo. “NAD is also helpful for people with sun damage to help with skin repair and rejuvenation.” Greiner adds, “If your concerns are hyperpigmentation, loss of elasticity or just overall aging, this ingredient is a must in your routine.”
NAD Skin-Care Products to Try
Whip lackluster skin into shape with these three high-performance formulas that give NAD the lead role.