When clients ask celebrity aesthetician Emme Diane how to strengthen the skin under their eyes, she always recommends a tried and tested trio: A combination of collagen-boosting peptides, hydrating humectants and powerful antioxidants.
“Peptides, like Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2 and Hexapeptide-48 HCI, work wonders. They stimulate collagen and elastin production, helping to firm and reinforce the skin,” Diane explains. “Niacinamide, or vitamin B3, is another must-have. It strengthens the skin barrier, improves elasticity and calms inflammation, all while refining skin texture.”
While it sounds kind of scientific, Diane says it’s a combo that works. “I also love using botanical firming agents like Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract—aka, Persian silk tree extract—and Darutoside. These natural extracts protect against glycation, a process that weakens collagen while helping to lift and firm sagging skin. Of course, hydration plays a crucial role in maintaining skin strength. So, I always look for ingredients like glycerin, caprylic/capric triglyceride, a deeply moisturizing coconut-derived emollient and hydrolyzed ceratonia siliqua [carob] seed extract to keep the under-eye area supple and resilient.”
To support long-term skin health, Diane also loves antioxidants like tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E) and Phaseolus Radiatus Meristem Cell Culture extract (a regenerative stem cell extract from mung beans). “Both help fight oxidative stress, prevent premature aging and enhance the skin’s repair process.”
In addition, Diane has developed an eponymous line, and a Bright Eyed Illuminating Eye Serum ($80) to specifically target under-eye concerns with these powerhouse ingredients. “We formulated it with niacinamide, peptides (Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2 and Hexapeptide-48 HCI), botanical firming agents (Albizia Julibrissin bark extract and Darutoside) and antioxidants (vitamin E and Phaseolus Radiatus Meristem Cell Culture extract). “It is designed to strengthen, hydrate and revitalize the under-eye area, reinforcing skin structure and boosting elasticity for a brighter, firmer look.”
Another standout Diane praises is Tatcha’s The Silk Peony Eye Cream ($67). The deeply nourishing formula uses silk extract and hydrolyzed silk to smooth and strengthen the skin. “It also contains Japanese White Peony extract for barrier support. And, Hadasei-3 Complex, which is a blend of green tea, rice and algae extracts that offer antioxidant protection. Plus, sodium hyaluronate provides deep hydration to keep the under-eye area looking fresh and plump.”
For those focused on combating fine lines and collagen breakdown, Diann is a fan of SkinCeuticals A.G.E. Eye Complex ($116), which she credits as an “amazing” option. “This formula features Proxylane, which helps maintain skin hydration and elasticity, along with blueberry extract, a potent antioxidant. It also contains flavonoids and synergistic peptides. Both reduce dark circles and puffiness, plus optical diffusers that instantly brighten the under-eye area.”
