Being married to a longtime beauty editor, my husband has learned a thing or two about skin care over the years. I can proudly say he now follows a solid skin-care routine. But, it took a while to get to this point, with lots of questions like “why do I need this?” along the way. (The retinol purging situation was interesting, but we made it through.) Here, three top dermatologists share their recommendations for the best skin-care ingredients for men. And as men themselves, they’ve experienced the results firsthand.
Featured Experts
- Joel Schlessinger, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in Omaha, NE
Dhaval Bhanusali, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York - Dr. Muneeb Shah, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York
How Men’s Skin Differs From Women’s
“Men and women share fundamental skin structures like elastin, collagen, hair follicles and sebaceous glands, but hormonal differences do influence their appearance,” says Omaha, NE dermatologist Joel Schlessinger, MD. “Testosterone in men contributes to larger pores, increased oil production, higher collagen density and about a 20 to 25-percent thicker dermis than in women. This makes signs of aging like fine lines less prominent for men.”
Despite these minor changes, New York dermatologist Dr. Muneeb Shah says there really aren’t skin-care ingredients and products that have been developed to address these differences. “Therefore, the ingredients used are similar between the two,” he notes.
Retinol
“Retinol is my favorite ingredient in a nighttime skin-care routine for men,” says Dr. Shah. “Retinol promotes cell turnover and can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, as well as unclog pores. It is important to start with a low concentration of retinol and gradually increase usage to avoid irritation.” This approach is still recommended for men, even though they have thicker skin. New York dermatologist Dhaval Bhanusali, MD agrees. “Retinol is an ingredient that is beneficial for all. Whether it’s to help with acne, texture, tone, pore, scars, or even wrinkles, it’s an absolute must.”
Dr. Shah likes RoC Retinol Correxion Line Smoothing Night Capsules. “These are great, especially for those in beginner stages of using retinol,” he says. “They don’t irritate the skin as you build up tolerance, and they feature ceramides and antioxidants, which are great for achieving a fresher, more vibrant skin barrier and complexion.” He also recommends his own serum, REMEDY for Healthy Aging. “This has basically everything you need in a nighttime skin-care routine: retinol, exfoliating acids, niacinamide and peptides,” he explains. “It helps to mitigate the loss of collagen and elastin with our slow-release dual retinoid delivery system, encapsulated exfoliants and advanced signal-peptides.”
Niacinamide
This is one of Dr. Bhanusali’s favorite calming ingredients, which he says can help with inflammation, as well as discoloration. “Niacinamide is a multifunctional ingredient that can help improve the overall appearance of the skin,” adds Dr. Shah. “It has anti-inflammatory properties, helps to regulate oil production, and can even out skin tone. This makes it a great addition to any skin-care routine for men looking to address multiple concerns.”
Exfoliating Acids
“Some ingredients that men may find especially beneficial are exfoliating alphahydroxy acids (AHAs), like glycolic and salicylic acids,” says Dr. Schlessinger. “These are great at helping manage oiliness and keeping pores clear, which are things men may need extra help with. I find that for my male patients, incorporating these ingredients into a daily cleanser is one of the easiest ways to add them into their regimen. I recommend LovelySkin LUXE Clarifying Gel Cleanser because it contains 2-percent glycolic acid and 2-percent salicylic acid, which help to minimize oiliness and soften rough texture. It’s also unscented, which some men tend to prefer.”
Dr. Bhanusali says salicyclic acid is particularly for men who have acne-prone or oily skin. “It’s a gentle, yet effective exfoliator that you can work in a few times a week or after a great gym session.” Exfoliating acids like glycolic, lactic and mandelic can also help prevent ingrown hairs, adds Dr. Shah.
Sunscreen (All UV Filters)
Perhaps the most important ingredient, the doctors agree, is sunscreen. (OK, we know sunscreen isn’t an ingredient, but we’re talking UV filters like zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, avobenzone and octinoxate.) “Men may spend more time outdoors or participate in outdoor activities that increase sun exposure, making sunscreen even more important,” says Dr. Shah. “Look for broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher.”
“Most importantly, skin cancer doesn’t discriminate based on gender, so men should apply sunscreen as diligently as women,” Dr. Schlessinger adds. “When I discuss sunscreen usage with my male patients, I try to help them find a formula that works with their lifestyle. For example, men who run or play outdoor sports like tennis or golf benefit most from hybrid sunscreens [chemical and physical UV filters] due to sweating. For these men, I recommend EltaMD UV Sport Broad Spectrum SPF 50 because it is sweat- and water-resistant for 80 minutes, and won’t drip into and ‘sting’ their eyes with sweat. It’s also oil-free, so it will resist clogging pores.”
For his patients who prefer an all-mineral sunscreen, Dr. Schlessinger’s go-to is Colorescience Total Protection No-Show Mineral Sunscreen SPF 50. “It contains 10-percent zinc oxide for great sun protection and EnviroScreen technology to help protect against our increasing exposure to pollution and blue light from digital screens. Plus, it blends into all skin tones beautifully, leaving behind no white cast.”
