Social media has unlocked an entire category of content creators dedicated to analyzing and reviewing sunscreen. Cosmetic chemists, brand founders, teenagers in their bedrooms—you name it. A common thread among feeds is debunking myths surrounding the condemnation of chemical sunscreen, and conversely, the glorification of mineral formulas. We’re fans of both. Here’s the latest news in the polarizing world of sunscreen and how to keep your skin protected.
The Condemnation of Chemical Sunscreen
Unlike other parts of the world, in the United States, chemical sunscreen filters are highly controversial. These include avobenzone, octisalate, octocrylene, homosalate, octinoxate and oxybenzone. Despite the negative connotation, “we have no evidence that ‘chemical’ sunscreen filters, when used at the concentrations found in topical products, cause adverse human health outcomes like cancer or hormone disruption,” says cosmetic scientist and product formulator Julian Sass, PhD, who has tested more than 500 sunscreens. “Chemical sunscreen is considered bad because organizations like the EWG continue to cherry-pick data. It tries to make consumers believe it is harmful to human health. However, that is categorically not the case.”
Fresno, CA dermatologist Kathleen Behr, MD says we do know, however, that chemical sunscreens are absorbed into the blood. “Studies conducted by the FDA prove this, but whether it is safe or unsafe is still not known,” she says. “More studies need to be done. Chemical sunscreens also tend to contain preservatives or fragrances that may irritate the skin. For these reasons, I only carry mineral sunscreens in my office.”
President of The Skin Cancer Foundation, New York dermatologist Deborah Sarnoff, MD, is very familiar with the persistent misconceptions surrounding sunscreen ingredients. “One big one is the idea that mineral—or physical—sunscreens are more ‘natural’ than chemical sunscreens,” she says. “But it’s important to keep in mind that all sunscreen ingredients, like all molecules, are chemicals. The bottom line is that the sunscreen ingredients that are currently FDA-approved have been used in the U.S. for many years. And, there is no evidence that these ingredients are harmful to humans. The most important thing is that you’re choosing a product you’re comfortable using daily. And, make sure it has broad-spectrum SPF of at least 30.”
The Great Reef Debate
Another reason why chemical sunscreen has been shunned is due to the belief that it harms coral reefs. “This idea went out into the public as a fact, but it has yet to be validated by science,” says Dr. Neil Box, cofounder of The Sun Bus, a mobile clinic for skin-cancer screenings. “There are about 15 other reasons why coral reefs are bleaching before you ever get to sunscreen, but this idea has permeated society and it’s something we have to combat.”
Will Chemical Sunscreens Be Banned?
There has been ample speculation on social media about this, which comes as the result of the FDA disclosing the need for more testing to ensure chemical SPF is safe. “I don’t think the FDA is close to banning chemical sunscreens,” says sunscreen aficionado Charlotte Palermino, a licensed aesthetician and cofounder of skin-care brand Dieux. “But, as it stands, the FDA is asking for animal testing. What is sad is that the FDA is doing the right thing, which is to continually review the safety of everything on the market. But, it has led to conspiracy theories and misinformation because the directive was unclear. People are jumping on this as a sign that things are unsafe. Hopefully this changes, and more importantly, we get newer, more innovative filters in the U.S. Then, we can create best-in-class sunscreens.”
There’s also concern over more animal testing, especially as the ban of such methods has become the standard for beauty products. “Sunscreen is categorized as a drug in the U.S., and every drug ingredient—both OTC and prescription—has gone through animal testing in the past,” says Dr. Sass. “This testing takes place on at least one rodent and one non-rodent species for safety and efficacy. Popular OTC drug ingredients like salicylic acid have also been tested this way. Unfortunately, we do not yet have reliable non-animal alternatives to those tests for drugs.”
What Is a Hybrid Sunscreen?
Hybrid sunscreens include a mix of physical and chemical UV filters. “These sunscreens simultaneously reflect and absorb UV rays,” explains Dr. Behr. There isn’t an inherent benefit to hybrid sunscreen from a formulation perspective, says Dr. Sass. “However, it does allow brands to use zinc oxide at lower concentrations—zinc oxide is what makes sunscreen white—and add chemical filters, which are transparent. This makes formulas drastically more elegant on the skin, both visually and texturally.” For this reason, hybrid SPF is great for those with darker skin tones who can’t use zinc-only formulas that leave a white cast. “Hybrids also allow brands to make claims like ‘powered by zinc oxide,’ which some people like,” adds Dr. Sass.
The Inside Scoop on “Sunscreen Doping”
Sophie Bai, founder and CEO of B.A.I. Biosciences and Pavise, coined the term “sunscreen doping” to describe the manufacturing practice that adds unapproved chemical UV filters to sunscreens. “For mineral sunscreens, this increases the SPF value without having a high amount of zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. This creates a fairly transparent formula and decreases white cast,” Bai says. “For chemical sunscreens, this increases the SPF value when other filters reached the maximum allowable usage level. We call these doping ingredients chemical analogs of FDA-monographed chemical UV filters. They behave exactly the same as chemical UV filters.”
The FDA has made it clear that any ingredient that absorbs UV radiation must be listed as an “active,” says Palermino. However, these analogs are listed in the “inactive ingredient” section. “The FDA doesn’t recognize them, so this is a loophole,” she explains. “It’s a dangerous loophole, too, because people may have allergies.” Bai adds that any SPF containing these analogs and claiming to be “100-percent mineral” is essentially a hybrid sunscreen.
A New UV Filter Is on the Horizon
Bemotrizinol (BEMT) is a chemical UV filter that protects against both UVA and UVB rays, and Dr. Sass says it has an extensive safety profile. “It has been used in sunscreens around the world for years, but is not yet available in the U.S. under the OTC Sunscreen Monograph,” Dr. Sarnoff adds. Carl D’Ruiz, senior manager of regulatory and government affairs at dsm-firmenich, is “the main champion of this filter in the United States,” adds Palermino. “He has been trying to get it approved since he created it more than 20 years ago.”
BEMT is currently making its way through the FDA approval process. “If approved, it will be the first new active sunscreen ingredient for use in the U.S. in nearly 25 years. And, the first new UV filter approved under the OTC Sunscreen Monograph,” explains Dr. Sarnoff. “I support the FDA working to review and approve new UV filters. At a time when skin cancer is occurring at the highest levels in decades, expanding our access to effective sun protection is paramount.” Dr. Behr adds that BEMT provides broad-spectrum protection even at low concentrations. This means less of it may be absorbed into the blood. Palermino suspects that with delays, we may not see BEMT is sunscreens stateside until 2025. “I’ve also heard rumblings of another amazing filter, Tinosorb M, coming to the States,” she adds. “It’s a hybrid filter, so both chemical and physical sunscreen.”
Do You Need a UV Camera?
UV cameras can serve as insurance for your SPF application and protection. “I recommend investing in one, like the Pavise UV Camera ($176) that attaches to your phone,” says Palermino. “It shows you how quickly your sunscreen can wear off after a few hours, even if you don’t touch your face or your body. It’s also a great reminder as to why we reapply.” Bai adds that this particular camera also has smart-sensing technology to make the UV images visible whether you are indoors or outdoors.
New Sunscreens We Recommend
Whether you choose chemical, mineral or a hybrid, the most important thing is effective sun protection. These new launches deliver.
