Products targeted for aging skin tend to highlight the same few ingredients like retinol, collagen and vitamin C. All of these superstars are great for combating signs of aging while nourishing mature skin. On the other hand, there are some ingredients that should be cut off once we hit a certain age. As we age, our skin gets more sensitive, and things that once had a regular spot in our daily routine might suddenly start to irritate skin.
“Certain ingredients should be avoided due to their potential to exacerbate age-related changes and negatively impact skin health. As skin ages, it undergoes significant transformations driven by hormonal shifts and a decrease in metabolic rate. These factors lead to slower skin cell turnover, reduced collagen production and a decline in natural oil production,” explains New York dermatologist Julie Russak, MD. “Additionally, the decline in estrogen levels during menopause contributes to increased dryness, loss of skin elasticity and the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. With these changes in mind, it’s crucial to be aware of ingredients that may be too harsh for mature skin.”
Featured experts
- Julie Russak, MD is a board-certified dermatologist based in New York
- Jennifer Segal, MD is a board-certified dermatologist based in Houston, TX
- Ava Shamban, MD is a board-certified dermatologist based in Santa Monica, CA
- Janine Hopkins, MD is a board-certified dermatologist in Southlake, TX and Monroe, LA
Fragrance
Anyone with sensitive skin knows that fragrance is a no-go, and this becomes true for more people as they age and skin becomes more sensitive, explains Houston, TX dermatologist Jennifer Segal, MD. “As a general rule, people with mature skin may react more strongly to any added fragrance,” says Santa Monica, CA dermatologist Ava Shamban, MD. “Gentle fragrance-free products that nourish and protect the skin barrier are best for maintaining a healthy and glowing complexion.” Dr. Russak warns that fragrances “can trigger inflammation, redness and allergic reactions, exacerbating age-related skin issues like dryness and sensitivity.” She recommends opting for fragrance-free or naturally scented products.
Sulfates
Sulfates are highly contested in general, and the experts say it’s best to stay away as we age. “Common in many foaming cleansers, sulfates (like sodium lauryl sulfate) can strip the skin of its natural oils, leading to dryness and irritation,” says Dr. Russak. “Mature skin, which already produces less oil, can become even more dry and sensitive when exposed to such ingredients.”
Harsh cleansers and exfoliants
We love how satisfying scrubs can feel when skin needs a good buffing, but intense scrubs should be skipped by those with mature skin. “Scrubs can irritate the skin, causing dryness and dullness rather than the ‘glow’ we seek from exfoliating,” warns Dr. Segal. “Scrubs with large or rough particles can cause microtears in the skin, leading to irritation and further weakening the skin’s barrier,” explains Dr. Russak. “Mature skin is thinner and more fragile, so it’s better to opt for gentle exfoliation.”
Preservatives
Dr. Shamban notes that preservatives can be an issue for mature skin—not that they’re great for any skin type. She explains that these offenders can result in irritation, redness and itching in aging skin.
Strong acids in high concentrations
While alpha-hydroxy acids and beta-hydroxy acids can be beneficial in low concentrations, even for mature skin, strong concentrations tend to be too harsh for aging skin. “Overuse can lead to over-exfoliation, causing irritation, increased sensitivity, and even damage to the skin’s protective barrier,” warns Dr. Russak.
Toner
Toners strip the skin of moisture, Dr. Segal points out. As we age, we need all the moisture we can get. When it comes to mature skin, toners “can cause irritation and dryness as well as dullness, the opposite of that glowy, dewy, youthful skin we aim for.”
Alcohol-based products
Dr. Shamban suggests steering clear of products with denatured alcohol like ethyl alcohol, which can deplete the skin. In mature skin, this can cause excessive dryness, inflammation and a disrupted skin barrier. Denatured alcohol is often used in skin care for its quick-drying effect, says Dr. Russak. “However, it can be extremely drying and can strip the skin of moisture, which is particularly harmful for mature skin that is already prone to dryness. Over time, it can lead to increased sensitivity and compromise the skin’s barrier function.”
Moisturizers with no active ingredients or skin health benefits
Southlake, TX and Monroe, LA dermatologist Janine Hopkins, MD says people with mature skin should skip products that are devoid of active ingredients or solid benefits. “With so many outstanding medical grade skin-care products available at multiple price points, patients with mature skin can greatly benefit from products that have antioxidants to reduce free radicals, hyaluronic acid to hydrate and retinoids to improve cell turnover and boost collagen production,” so using anything else is a waste of time and money.
“Heavy moisturizers are often chosen by patients with mature skin because their skin feels dry, but this dryness is a sign of a buildup of dead, dull skin cells,” explains Dr. Hopkins. “I often tell my patients applying moisturizers to dry skin is like ‘adding milk to a bowl of cornflakes.’ You still have cornflakes—they’re just soggy.” She recommends choosing impactful products like the Glytone Cleanser ($36) and Caudalie Glycolic Acid Night Cream ($69).
